Inspector’s Blog

Circuit Panel and Circuit Breakers

The second most important maxim to remember when building a new home and installing your home’s electrical wiring is. �You can never have enough circuit breakers.

As our homes today become increasingly filled with home theater systems, multiple computers, fancier lighting systems, and other new age kitchen appliances, residential electricity demand continues to rise. Gone are the days when 100 Amp circuit panel is sufficient.

This said, when meeting with your electrical contractor ask for a minimum of a 200 Amp circuit panel with 40 locations for circuit breakers. You may not initially need all of the circuit breaker locations, but over time you probably will. For example if you install a pool or build a home addition later on you will need additional circuit breakers.

If you are unfamiliar with a circuit panel, it is where all of the wires in your home get tied into and connected to circuit breakers. These circuit breakers are fed by one large circuit breaker that connects your home to the local electric grid. Typically each circuit breaker is targeted towards a specific room within the home. In some cases there may be multiple circuit breakers for a room.

There are national, state and local residential electrical wiring codes that specify the maximum number of outlets, switches and appliances that can be on a circuit breaker. Also, circuit breakers come in different shapes and sizes with different current rating capacities. The electrical codes also specify the current capacity of the circuit breaker for particular rooms. They also specify the types of rooms that need ground fault interrupt circuit breakers. For example, typically kitchens and bathrooms will require 20amp ground fault circuit breakers due to the number of appliances that are used in these rooms and the higher risk of electrical shock. Ground fault interrupt circuit breakers are designed to trip in the event an electrical appliance comes in contact with water, thus potentially saving your life.

Residential Electrical Wiring

Another important residential electrical wiring tip is the choice of electrical wiring. Many codes only require the use of 14-2 wire, which consists of a black, white and bare ground wire that is typically tied into a 15-amp circuit breaker. Again, with the increase of electronic technology in the home I would suggest using 12-2 wire in all rooms. This is a thicker wire usually used in conjunction with 20amp circuit breakers. With more current carrying capacity you will have less chance of tripping circuit breakers when the home theater, computer and vacuum cleaner are all running simultaneously. If you have kids, you know this is possible.

Also, if you plan on building a workshop in your garage or basement you’ll definitely want to use 12-2 wire. I�ve been in too many homes where I turn on the table saw and trip the circuit breaker because someone else was simultaneously using an electric drill.

Location and Height of Electrical Outlets

Again, codes dictate minimum heights off of the floor and maximum distances between outlets. However, I typically install outlets so that the bottom of the box is 16 inches off the floor. I also try to install outlet boxes near where I anticipate furniture to reside.

Location of Electrical Switches

When installing light switches carefully consider the locations of them. You don’t want them installed behind doors. You want them to be intuitively located when walking into the room. Usually you will want to place them within arm reach of the doorway at a height of 48 inches or so off of the floor.

Also consider 3-way switches, which means you can turn the light off at two locations within the room. This is particularly helpful if there are two ways of egress from the room. Don�t forgo this type of switch, if your wiring your own home or room, just because it seems too complicated. You will regret your decision over an over. A 3-way switch is not too complicated. It just requires the right type of switches (two 3-way switches) and reading the wiring instructions in the 3-way switch packaging. You can also find instructions online.

Installing Ceiling Lights and Ceiling Fans

When installing ceiling/wall lights and ceiling fans, assemble them as much as possible on the ground to eliminate neck strain and the need for having another set of hands to hold them up when installing them.

Use the Right Tools

Always use the right tools when installing residential electrical wiring in your home. Pliers and screwdrivers should have insulated grips. Also, needle nose pliers are great for creating the loops in the wire to fasten the outlet/switch screws to. In addition, use insulated wire stripping tools for stripping wires. Finally, there are also some inexpensive casing strippers to help to quickly remove the white casing around the 12-2 or 14-2 wire.

There are other choices for exterior trim besides solid wood, but understanding how different materials perform and knowing their limitations is the key to satisfaction.

by Paul Fisette – © 1997

OK. So we all want to use clear, vertical grain, all heartwood western red cedar or redwood for our exterior trim. This material is a time-proven warrior, successfully protecting homes for centuries. It resists decay, remains stable, holds paint well and works easily. But recently, the supply of these materials has been strained and prices have become budget-busters for many projects.

Perhaps just as popular as cedar and redwood is solid wood trim made from other locally available species. Solid wood is a familiar material and many builders will use nothing else. Lumber yards who sell to pro builders report that 90% of the trim they sell is solid wood, once you eliminate vinyl from the mix. But high-grade trim material of any species is getting pricey. Builders complain that the grades are slipping. That the “good stuff” is getting harder to find.

The apprenticeship method of learning still found in the building trades encourages the use of conventional materials. The adoption of new materials and applications is slow to develop. However, builders are moving away from solid wood trim. Builders are discovering options: finger jointed wood (primarily red cedar, redwood, pine and fir); laminated veneer lumber (LVL); hardboard or medium density fiberboard (MDF); and fiber-cement products.

There was, until very recently, another promising trim product available to builders. Louisiana Pacific (L.P.) manufactured and distributed a paper-overlay oriented strand board (osb) product called Inner Seal ® Trim and Fascia. Amidst a squall of reported failures involving Inner Seal ® siding products and a resulting class-action suit against L.P., the trim and soffit products were pulled from the market. A company spokesperson in the Conroe, Texas plant where Inner Seal ® siding products are manufactured, defends the product as a good idea and a good product, indicating that L.P. yanked the trim line only because it was loosing money. The antiquated, continuous-press mill used to make the trim products is blamed for the loss.

As we move away from the tried-and-true toward new products and new technologies, we must remember there is no panacea. There is a price to pay. Some products are difficult to install because they are unfamiliar. Other products are made of materials that require fussy installation to provide long, durable service. Others closely resemble their solid-wood cousins but behave differently. The products reviewed in this article cover a broad range of performance and price. They all require a shift in attitude, but not a drop in performance.

Finger Jointed Wood

Of all exterior trim options, finger jointed material is most readily accepted by builders. It is welcomed as a less- expensive alternative to solid wood even in the conservative Northeast. “The Northeast is one of our hottest markets,” says Keith Kersell, manager of sales and technical services, Pacific Lumber Company (PALCO), Scotia, CA. Keith sees the heaviest demand for finger jointed exterior trim in New England, California, the Gulf States, and the Eastern Seaboard.

Of all exterior trim options, finger jointed material is most readily accepted by builders. It is welcomed as a less- expensive alternative to solid wood even in the conservative Northeast. “The Northeast is one of our hottest markets,” says Keith Kersell, manager of sales and technical services, Pacific Lumber Company (PALCO), Scotia, CA. Keith sees the heaviest demand for finger jointed exterior trim in New England, California, the Gulf States, and the Eastern Seaboard.

Finger jointed wood has a lot going for it. It is a more efficient use of wood fiber. Short high-grade lengths of wood are extracted form otherwise low-grade lumber and reconstituted into long, straight, clear pieces of trim. Exterior weather-resistant glues like melamine-urea or phenolic resin are used to bond the short lengths together to endure exposed conditions. And as far as labor goes, there is no learning curve. It is installed just like solid wood.

Trim stock is available in virtually all species and profiles. Most popular is 1- and 5/4- inch trim that is 4″ – 12″ wide. The wider widths like 10’s and 12’s are often created by edge-gluing several narrower widths together. Edge-gluing is done at the producing mill’s option. When you order finger jointed trim at the lumber yard, you buy a glued product – period. The mill assembles the trim boards according to the widths available during the production run. If they have narrow widths available, then you get edge-glued trim boards. Sixteen-foot lengths are standard fare, but finger jointed trim is readily available in lengths up to 24 feet. Long lengths and 5/4-inch thickness are especially desirable for corner board applications where unbroken lengths and deep returns for siding are called for.

Finger jointed material comes in several grades: clear vertical grain all-heart; clear vertical grain (sapwood present); clear flat grain all-heart or clear flat grain (with sapwood). The best choice of course is clear, vertical grain all-heartwood.

Only heartwood is naturally resistant to decay. And vertical grain material holds paint much better than flat grain material because it is more stable. It shrinks and swells less across its face and has less grain-raising than flat-sawn lumber. As wood moves (shrinks and swells) under a coating of paint, it stresses the bond between the paint and the wood. Ultimately the film of paint is sheared from the surface of the wood. Builders often think that they are going to get vertical-grain performance form flat-grain material as long as it is clear. This is just not realistic. It is getting harder and harder to get vertical-grain material because the size of available trees are getting smaller, but specify vertical grain whenever you can get it.

Finger jointed trim is not without its problems. It makes many builders nervous. Steve Ferrari, Project Manger, Kohl Construction in Hadley, MA is a typical example. Kohl construction is a progressive-minded company that readily embraces new technology. Kohl uses all the latest products in their high-end, high-quality homes. But Ferrari is quick to say, “We are reluctant to use a finger jointed product outdoors.” Builders like Ferrari balk because of horror stories they hear about finger-jointed trim. Stories that tell of finger jointed brick molding literally falling apart after a few years of exposure. And other stories where finger joints have telegraphed through the finish coating of paint.

While tales of woe sift from the field, finger jointed trim still holds promise. Most problems lie in the fact that it looks just like solid wood, but it behaves differently. It is a different material. Consider that you are gluing two different pieces of wood together when you form a finger joint. Even if these two pieces of wood were harvested from the same tree, and exposed to precisely the same moisture conditions during manufacturing, it is unlikely that they will have the exact same grain orientation. Therefore, if exposed to moisture variation in service, each piece will shrink and swell differently, stressing the joint. You will at least “see” the joint if the material is not well-protected. Severe exposure to moisture cycling may eventually cause the joint to fail. This is the basic undoing of finger jointed trim. It requires special care! Finger jointed trim can and does work well when it is specified and handled correctly.

• specify vertical grain material (heartwood of durable species best)
• specify exterior-exposure adhesive in joints
• factory or field-apply oil-base prime coat on all surfaces.
• use 2 coats of 100% acrylic latex paint for top coats (do not use stains)
• maintain protective coating on regular basis
• carefully detail architectural elements to minimize exposure

Laminated Veneer Lumber (LVL)

The manufacturers of engineered wood have expanded their vision. You can now buy laminated veneer lumber (LVL) exterior trim. LVL is made by the parallel lamination of veneers into thicknesses desired for a given application. And just as the first applications of structural LVL were inspired by rising costs and shortages of high-grade lumber; the development of LVL trim is driven by rising costs and reduced supplies of high-grade appearance-grade material. South Coast Lumber Company in Brookings, OR manufactures an LVL trim product called Clear Lam.

South Coast LVL is made of Douglas-fir core-veneers and alder face-veneers. The layup is glued with a phenolic-based exterior glue and sprayed with a preservative to protect the product in the field. The face that is intended to be exposed to the weather is overlayed with a phenolic-based MDO that is about 20/1000″ thick (MDO or medium density overlay indicates that the overlay sheet is 20 % resin solids by weight). As the 48-inch wide LVL sheets come out of the press, they are gang-ripped and precision sanded to widths usable as fascia, soffit and other trim components. Once the individual pieces of trim have been sized, they are fully coated with an elastomeric edge coating and primer. All traces of veneer edge-grain is masked.

Clear Lam is actually a second generation LVL trim product. Their first product, clear trim , did not have an MDO face. Ron Rutherford, South Coast Lumber’s Sales Manager indicates, “The reason we have gone to a paper face is because we saw a lot of face checking in the product we made without the overlay.” Field conditions can be harsh. You can not easily control the amount of heat and moisture that these products are exposed to. So South Coast improved its offering. Rutherford reports, “The MDO facing eliminated the only problem expressed by contractors about our product.”

Clear Lam is stocked by distributors around the country. The 1-inch and 5/4-inch thick material in widths (in 2″ increments) from 4-inches to 12-inches is readily available. Sixteen and twenty foot lengths are standard. But if you schedule your order with a 3-week lead time, LVL trim can be ordered from the factory in thicknesses that range from 5/8″ to 1 1/4″, widths up to 48-inches and lengths up to 24-feet.

The list of benefits are long: It is easy to cut, nail and install; it is durable; it paints well; is available in long lengths and a variety of widths; has no knots or cross-grain; and is dimensionally stable. So where is the catch you ask? I don’t really have much bad news except that it is a little pricey.

The builders I spoke with like the stuff. Steve Greenwell, owner of Renaissance Builders in Turners Falls, MA sums up the feelings of many when he says,”We have used quite a bit of the LVL trim and we have had great luck. It stays together and paints well.” Greenwell has used it for fascia, corner boards, window surrounds and has had only 1 bad piece. However, builders disagree with the dealers contention that stocking only 16-foot lengths is a waste-saving measure. This decision creates waste. Greenwell offers, “If dealers think they are saving waste, let them come visit my shop and I’ll show them a bin full of 6-footers.” The question: if you build a cape or ranch with 9′6″ corner boards, what do you do with the other 6′6″? Dealers should stock these products in at least 2 lengths, maybe 10-footers and 16-footers.

Often, builders combine LVL fascia and rake trim with MDO plywood soffits. Half-inch thick MDO plywood costs around $35/sheet and 48″-wide sheets are stock items in all lumber yards. MDO has a long and successful track record for exterior painted surfaces. It is regularly used by highway departments for painted road signs.

Hardboard Trim

There are currently 4 manufacturers of hardboard trim in the United States: Temple Inland, Georgia Pacific, ABTco, and Forestex Company. All refer to their trim lines as (and would like you to start calling it) engineered wood. Each company’s fiberboard is made in roughly the same way. Hardwood chips are heated with steam and hot water and then passed through 2 rotating discs to create the fiber that is eventually pressed into board stock. An interesting thing happens during this process. When the wood fibers that were sheared apart are hot-pressed into boards, lignin normally found in wood cells begins to flow. In a sense the wood fibers are coated by their own lignin. Lignin is a naturally-occuring “adhesive” that holds wood together. Brown rot fungus does not attack lignin. And many scientists believe that it is this fact that causes hardboard to be a little more resistant to decay than some untreated species like spruce, pine and fir.

There are many similarities among the fiberboard products sold to builders. Hardboard trim is readily available in all regions of the country. All hardboard trim products weigh about the same, around 50 pounds per cubic foot. This is about twice as heavy as solid redwood. Hardboard trim products are available in 1- and 5/4- inch thickness, 4″ – 12″ widths and 16-foot lengths. Manufacturers offer 7/16-inch thick soffit material too. The trim is made with an exterior-grade binder and usually comes in smooth and wood-figured textures. The motivating force for developing these products is cost and availability of high-grade solid wood.

TrimCraft ®, manufactured by Temple-Inland Forest Products, Corp., Dibol, TX, was introduced 4 years ago. Product manager, Gary Martz, claims, “Market acceptance has absolutely blossomed.” TrimCraft ® is not overlayed with an MDO or any kind of facing. The material is homogeneous throughout its cross section. It is a reversible product: smooth on one side and textured to look like cedar on the other side. Temple laminates 2 pieces of hardboard together to create a 1-or 5/4-inch thick trim product which is sold for fascia, rakes or corner boards. TrimCraft ® comes factory primed on all surfaces.

ProTrim ® trimboard is manufactured by ABTco, Inc., Roaring River, NC. The company changed hands in October of 1992. Its name changed from Abitibi-Price to ABTco, but the product is exactly the same. ProTrim ® is similar to Temple Inland’s product is all respects but one: ProTrim ® is faced with a paper overlay they call their “fusion finish”. The overlay is a newspaper-quality paper that is bonded with the addition of linseed oil. “The wood fiber and paper become one.”, according to Michael Donaldson, ABTco’s manager of product design. Donaldson claims that ProTrim ® paints better because of this process. And even the competition agrees. Gib Landis, sales manager for Georgia Pacific says,”They have perhaps the best surface in the business. It paints like a piece of glass.” But Landis is quick to add that there is more to performance than paintability. He feels G.P.”s products are best because “They paint nicely, and are unusually resistant to rot.”

PrimeTrim ® , an unfaced hardboard trim product manufactured by Georgia Pacific, Atlanta, GA, comes primed on its face and two edges. It is not back-primed. PrimeTrim ® has been tested and its resistance to decay has been measured by the Wood Products Laboratory at Mississippi State University. While it is still a mystery why — G.P.’s PrimeTrim ® scored extremely well. It proved to be just slightly less resistant than cedar lumber siding and slightly more resistant than redwood lumber siding when tested according to ASTM D-2017. In this test , wood samples are exposed to rot fungus, put in an incubator and the weight-loss due to rot is measured. Other hardboard manufacturers do not make similar claims.

Forestrim ® , another unfaced fiberboard trim product, is the new kid on the block. Forestex in Forest Grove, OR introduced Forestrim ® just 1 year ago. At this time it comes only in a 5/8-inch thickness, but the company is experimenting with a 1-inch thick product and expects to have it on-line soon. Trim boards that are 3 1/2-inches wide are readily available and other widths can be special ordered.

Each of the manufacturers I talked with expressed concern over the reputation hardboard siding seems to have developed among builders. Many builders I know (myself included) have had problems using hardboard siding. Thickness-swell is a problem. Wood fibers are compressed in the hot-press when the boards are made. Some of this compression stress is relieved over time. This causes the swelling that is observed around nail heads and at the ends of some boards. Hardboard is more likely to absorb moisture and swell where unprotected fibers are exposed to weather. The forces associated with thickness swell are so great that they cause paint coatings to fail along the edges of boards. Water enters cracks and unprotected penetrations (like over-driven nails) in the paint surface accelerating the degrade process. Even if the claims of rot-resistance are accurate, softening, swelling and delamination of fiberboard is an undeniable concern.

Buckling can be a problem too. As we go from solid wood to hardboard during the manufacturing process, we tear down the grain structure of wood, randomize the fiber direction and put it back together as a homogeneous material. The low longitudinal expansion of solid wood is averaged out with the higher tangential and radial potentials. As a result, hardboard shrinks and swells more along its length than solid wood. But manufacturers blame improper application, detailing and maintenance for swelling and buckling problems.

You should flush-nail this product with corrosion-resistant nails. Over-driven nails must be sealed with a paintable caulk. Butt joints must have a 1/8-inch gap that is filled with a flexible caulk. Edges like those where corner boards are joined should not be mitered. All surfaces (face, nail heads and cut edges) should be sealed with 2 coats of acrylic latex paint. Do not install hardboard in direct contact with concrete. Never nail from both ends of a board toward the middle. And hardboard should be reprimed prior to finishing if it is left unpainted for longer than 60 days. If you follow these rules, manufacturers claim you won’t have swelling or buckling problems. The problem then becomes a maintenance issue.

Temple Inland’s Martz says that their TrimCraft product can go 5 to 10 years between painting as long as the base coat of paint is applied correctly. By all accounts, to expect this kind of paint performance on any material is truly optimistic. But good flashing, smart detailing and frequent painting should keep customers happy with hardboard trim products.

Installing hardboard trim takes some getting used to. Steve Ferrari says, “I love it, but my carpenters hate it.” Steve, like many builders, has had very good luck using these products. He is fussy with the details. And the houses I visited looked perfect after 4 years of service. However, his carpenters find it difficult to nail. Getting the right setting with nail guns is tricky. And they have patched and sanded quite a few nail heads to make their jobs top-shelf. Overall, it takes a little more to time to install than conventional wood trim. But for his money, Ferrari thinks it is a good deal.

Fiber-Cement

Fiber-cement trim has a unique appeal: once you install it, it’s there forever. And as one builder said, “It is not what it does on the wall, it is what it doesn’t do.” Fiber-cement composite is a mixture of wood-fiber reinforcement (under 10%), Portland cement and sand. It is durable, dimensionally stable, fire resistant, and immune to the effects of insects, water, and sunlight.

There are two players in the autoclaved fiber-cement market. James Hardie Building Products, Inc., Fontana, CA and Eternit, Inc., Blandon, PA. James Hardi has been manufacturing fiber-cement for over 100 years in Australia. They offer a full compliment of fiber-cement building products including roofing, siding, trim and underlayment. While Eternit and Hardi manufacture very similar composite trim materials, it is Hardi that is wooing the light-frame construction market. James Hardi manufactures HardiTrim ® , a 7/16-inch thick trim product that is manufactured in 4-, 6-, 8-, and 12-inch widths. It is sold in 12-foot lengths. They also manufacture 1/4-inch thick HardiSoffit ® in 16-, 24-, 36- and 48- inch widths and 8-, 9- and 10-foot lengths. Eternet, on the other hand, makes several products, but all are sold in 4′x8′ (or larger) panel format, not user-friendly!

HardiTrim ® is a new product and all sizes are not yet available in all markets. Furman Lumber’s Houston branch is Hardi’s largest distributor and offers all sizes to the Southwestern market. The product should be rolled out in Northern markets within a year. With a 50-year transferable warranty and at 60% the cost of solid wood it is expected to become a popular offering for Furman.

The first thing builders say when told about a fiber-cement product is, I don’t want to have to drill every nail hole. “You won’t have to pre-drill”, says Wes Webb, General Manager for Furman’s Houston branch but, “There is a little bit of learning to do with this product.”

A couple of Webb’s major builders have switched to HardiTrimª and while they like the performance that is promised, they find it more difficult to work with. They use regular galvanized nails to fasten it and recommend using a 2″x4″ sub-fascia to provide straight, solid nailing. Fiber-cement is dense(80 psf) and hard. Straight and miter cuts are made using a circular saw equipped with a carbide-tip blade. The blade is usually thrown away at the end of the job. A diamond tip blade lasts much longer, but is slower and its cuts are not as clean. Because the trim is only 7/16-inch thick corner boards must be built out with 1/2-thick wood backing. All fiber-cement boards should be field trimmed because factory ends are not reliable. Fiber-cement does not have nail-holding power of its own, so solid nail-backing must be provided behind all butt-joint and miter connections.

Paint lasts a very long time on fiber-cement. Since the material is so moisture resistant and stable, stress does not build under the coating as it does with wood products. In fact, Lee Brunner, N.E. Sales manager for James Hardi reports that PPG and Olympic offer a 15-year warranty for their factory-applied finish on Hardi products. Some fiber-cement products need an alkali resistant paint, but Hardi recommends a regular acrylic-latex.

Working with fiber-cement is different than working with wood. It is not only more difficult to nail and cut, it is a dusty material to machine. Health concerns laid out in the Fiber-Cement Material Safety Data Sheet should be recognized and respected. These products contain silica that is bonded securely in place in its manufactured form. But dust masks should be worn while cutting or drilling. Breathing silica dust can cause silicosis, a non-cancerous lung disease.

Last Word

Working with new materials requires patience and an open mind. Everything doesn’t work as easily as wood — to a large extent because we are so familiar with wood. We were trained to use wood and our tool boxes are filled with tools made to work wood. Builders who have used pine trim for years are satisfied with its performance, yet pine is not a naturally durable wood. It rots if it is not protected by careful detailing and a good coating of paint. Pine has cross-grain and knots. It shrinks, swells and degrades when exposed to rain and sunlight. I love working with wood and it is always my immediate first choice. But other materials can work as well if they are treated with the understanding that will make them work.

Cost Comparisons

Contacts

Hardboard Products

American Hardboard Assoc., 520 N. Hicks Rd., Palatine, IL 60067 312-934-8800
ABTco Building Products Corp., P.O.Box 98, Hwy. 268, Roaring River, NC 28669 800-334-3551

Forestex, P.O.Box 68, Forest Grove, OR 97116 503-357-2131 Georgia Pacific, P.O.Box 105605, Atlanta, GA 30348 404-521-4000 or 800-447-2882

Snavely Forest Products, P.O.Box 310, 53 Bannard St, Freehold, NJ 07728 908-462-2323 or 800-233-0118 (distributes LVL Clear Lam and ABTco)

Temple-Inland Forest Products, Corp., P.O.Drawer N, Diboll, TX 75941 409-829-5511 or 800-231-6060

LVL Trim

Snavely Forest Products (see above)

South Coast Lumber Company, 815 Railroad Ave., P.O.Box 670, Brookings, OR 97415 503-469-2127

Fiber-Cement

Eternit, Excelsior Industrial Park, P.O.Box 679, Blandon, PA 19510-0679 610-926-010

Furman Lumber, Inc., P.O.Box 130, Nutting Lake, MA 01865 800-843-9663
—— Houston Branch 800-392-3942

James Hardie Building Products, Inc., 10901 Elm Avenue, Fontana, CA 92337 800-942-7343

Fingerjointed Wood

Pacific Lumber Company (PALCO), Main St., P.O.Box 37, Scotia, CA 95565 707-764-2222

In short, yes. The stimiulus bill of 2009 allows for a $1500 tax credit for the purchase of new windows (NOT INSTALLATION!)… There are a few minor stipulations, but nearly all new windows would qualify. You only get 30% of the purchase price, they must be installed in 2009 or 2010 and they must have a certificate state that they carry a U-factor of 0.30 or less and their  Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) is 0.30 or less. You’ll need to fill out a form requesting the tax credit that should be available from the IRS by the end of the year.

This credit applies to windows, doors and skylights.

This document is not intended to constitute legal or tax advice. More comprehensive information
will be made available by the IRS. Individuals should consult their own independent tax advisers.
For more information on the tax credit for new windows and other energy improvements, view:
· The Alliance to Save Energy site: www.ase.org/content/article/detail/2654
· The ENERGY STAR site: www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_tax_credits

For more window information you can visit -  http://www.efficientwindows.org/

No house is flawless. Some troubles could be detected, but that does not mean you should not purchase the home. A home inspection will list troubles that might or might not be outstanding. A home inspection isn’t a warranty that troubles will not spring up later on,  but it may show you how to forestall them.

If you move in and discover a problem that you think the inspection or former owner should have disclosed or divulged, the first step is to call the inspector and clarify the situation. If necessary, you may wish to consult a local mediation service to help you adjudicate your disagreement with the previous homeowner or inspector. Though a lot professional home inspectors today carry Errors and Omissions Liability Insurance, litigation ought to be looked at a last resort.  It’s expensive for all involved and can frequently be avoided though open communication.

Your inspector should be one of your last lines of defense in the real estate transaction process as a buyer. You want complete objectivity and honesty, this is a huge investment. With that in mind, from where should an inspector be selected?

In my experience as in inspector, the vast majority of referrals come from Realtors. In my not so humble opinion this is significant error in judgment on the part of the buyer. I will say there are a few Realtors out there that do genuinely have their clients best interest at heart. This is significantly easier for the Realtor if they are working for the seller, but requires amazing moral fortitude when working as a “Buyer’s Agent”. The golden rule still applies to the reality of our capitalistic based economy. Who pays the “Buyer’s Agent’s” salary? Generally their commission is split with the sellers agent, and the proceeds are deducted from the sale price. In all reality the seller pays the “Buyer’s Agent”.

This becomes an issue when a thorough inspection is performed and significant issues are brought to light and a sale is threatened. A good inspector presents all issues objectively and educates the buyer as to the potential cost to resolve issues and a general time frame in which they may need to be addressed.

As you can imagine a good number of us mere humans as Realtors cave to the pressure of the psyche and either try to paint significant issues as much less significant or pressure the inspector to do so. Also being human, a good many inspectors will do so to win favor with the Realtor. After all, they refer clients everyday, an inspection client (buyer) may refer one or two friends a year in an up market.

It’s my assertion that the best place to find a good inspector is a referral from a friend. Ideally one that got an inspection a year or more ago, had significant issues with the home they were purchasing and went ahead with the deal with their eyes wide open. Not the easiest referral to come by, but you can be assured it’s a good one. If this isn’t an option you may have to resort to interviewing and gut instincts as most sources looking to recommend an inspector have an ulterior motive if you’re willing to look just below the surface and think about it for yourself for just a moment.

Grading: Exterior grading is the most basic element of any given property. Soil conditions are rarely addressed in a basic inspection as laboratory analysis is typically required to provide any substantial information regarding its makeup.

Grading also plays a key role in proper drainage of a property. Water can be correctly diverted away from flashings and foundations via mechanical means such as gutters and counter flashings but if soil, concrete and other immobile elements are not properly aimed these measures do little to substantially maintain a property. A geotechnical engineer is the specialist who needs to be consulted regarding these issues in depth when needed.

A need for their services may arise at the planning stage of new construction or when soil and grading is significantly affecting the property in a negative way. Use of both of these services is highly advisable regardless of what type of property one may be investing in for a platitude of reasons. Soil testing can be a major factor in properties located near industrial areas, pollution can be a serious health hazard and should be fairly researched.

Geotechnical engineering is part of basic planning in areas like California where steep grades are common and minor settlement can dramatically affect a property. These practices are much more common with more expensive properties, but should be considered on down to even the residential level.

To add some perspective; a home inspector may simply superficially comment on drainage conditions, a commercial inspector may mention in passing surrounding properties that may be contaminating hazards such as chemical producing or using subjects, while an industrial developer may need to do massive planning and analysis of a sites soil and grading in the case of a factory where extreme weights will be routinely moved around a property or a farm where soil purity and conditions are of the utmost import.

Foundation Wall Crack Repair - Vertical Cracks
By Jacques Bouchard

Vertical cracks in a foundation occur most often due to poor construction practice or when foundation concrete shrinks and cures. These cracks are common in both newly constructed homes and in older ones. While vertical wall cracks in the foundation do not often lead to structural issues as often as horizontal cracks, they commonly leak water from the foundation outside into the basement or crawl space area. In fact, this water flow can be so heavy that some customers call in saying that water was literally squirting into the house!

The unfortunate truth of the matter is that no one wants to buy a home with a leaking foundation wall crack. Certainly, no one wishes to live in a home with foundation water! Damaged or deteriorating foundation walls lead to a great deal of problems for homeowners and their bank accounts. Foundation soil water entering into a basement will cause a home to be difficult (if not impossible) to sell and will cause the home to lose 10% or more of its value. This means that with a $200,000 home, the value will suffer by $20,000! The problem will only worsen with time as more water rushes through the crack and the forces of nature open the crack even wider.

Home Foundation Repair

Do-it-yourself wall crack solutions are not the answer. In many cases, homeowners will attempt to repair the problem simply by adding caulk in the gaps. With a caulk seal, efflorescence will build up as water fills the crack up to the caulking and cause this plug to peel off. Additionally, if the crack isn’t clean, the caulk will bond to the dirt instead of the cement, which will weaken its effectiveness. Of course, the seal will work for a little while, but if you want to fix the problem so your foundation wall never leaks, this isn’t the answer.

Filling a wall crack with hydraulic cement or other rigid substances is also doomed to failure. The problem here is that while the hole is plugged, the problem (foundation water pressing in from the outside) still exists. Over time, as the foundation swells and shrinks with changes in temperature and moisture, the movement will work the plug loose. Foundation leaking will often begin again in about two years.

In cases where epoxy is used, the seal may still hold, but its rigidity will cause the wall to simply crack again nearby as it continues to expand and contract. Additionally, epoxy tends to cure very slowly, and it may actually run out from the other side of the crack before completely hardening. The surface to which the epoxy is added must be completely dry so it may form a proper bond. Alternatively, urethane seals work somewhat better because they’re flexible and expandable, but cracks can easily shift and expand over 100% in time, which is far beyond the ability of this material to stretch.

Dirty Work

Another possible way to repair a leaking foundation wall crack is from the outside. To do this, you’ll have to dig straight down the foundation and uncover the entire wall crack. Hopefully, there’s no sidewalk, bush, garden, front steps, or anything else in the way of the area where the crack is located or they will need to be removed. If there’s a porch, deck, or outside stairs in the way, you’ll have to work around it somehow or remove it as well. Digging out the dirt will leave mounds in your yard and create a mess, and as the dirt is backfilled back in, it will be more porous and water-absorbent than ever. While the multiple layers of synthetic waterproof materials you install will often be effective in solving the problem, if there is ever a failure on the seal, the entire process will have to be repeated. Also, you will have to regrade the soil that was excavated over the next year to prevent it from pooling around the foundation and adding to the problem.

A Foundation Waterproofing Solution that Works EVERY Time

All of the foundation repair solutions above do work- some of the time. If you’re interested in a solution that works every time, however, look to the FlexiSpan wall crack repair solution. The FlexiSpan installation begins by locating a way for potential water to drain outside of the basement- either through a perimeter French drain system or through a small drywell created by the installer. The crack is sealed with a urethane-based sealant (not the same one mentioned earlier - this one can expand to 20 times its original volume!). It bonds well with both wet and dry concrete surfaces, and it’s impenetrable to water. It allows repair without invasive excavation of the yard, and the polyurethane polymer has a low viscosity that allows it to easily fill hairline cracks.

Even in cases where the seal fails, 95% of the water will be prevented from passing through. Any remaining water is intercepted by a foam strip laid over the crack that will direct water down to the drywell. As a finishing touch, the sealed foundation wall crack and foam strip is coated over with material that will make it as invisible as possible and will give it a clean, gray tooled-off look. The drywell is covered over with fresh concrete, and the leak is fixed neatly and forever!

Basement Systems’ basement waterproofing dealers can install this solution all across the United States as well as in Canada and the UK. If you’re interested in a free, no-obligation estimate on this product, call or contact us today!

Jacques Bouchard
Basement Systems
Total Basement Finishing

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jacques_Bouchard

Foundation Repair - Foundation Frustration Chapter 1
By Ed Eckley

Foundation Frustration….A term that matches the situation quite well I believe.

I would like to start this article with a little description of myself. I know that many of you are wondering who I am, and what makes me an authority on building foundations?… Well, first of all, I will never claim to be the authority on anything, even though I have devoted most of my life to the industry. I am just another guy, like you, that is going through life with similar questions, and similar frustrations. The reason I try so hard to protect foundations is simple: I wish for good things, and I will try to make them last forever. My lovely wife accepted my proposal 27 years ago. We are devoted to each other and will likely stay together forever. She is my foundation. Without her, I was just another human structure waiting to be stabilized.

When you read my articles, you will begin to realize that I am just as frustrated as you..

You have good reasons for your frustrations: You have purchased a new home and it has begun settling or twisting, Or, You have an old building that has been around for decades, never had any particular problems, and just recently you are noticing cracks in the walls and the floors are starting to slope. You are upset, Naturally, and you want some answers… You have been reading lots and lots of opinion based articles. You have asked friends, neighbors, even your mother, about their thoughts. You have probably done more research than a college student cramming for a test.
The frustration increases. The more you learn, the more you are confused. Many things sound logical. Many different Ideas make sense, but why are there so many different possibilities?, and why do they all seem like lab experiments?

You are now quite frustrated and angry with your realtor, Your builder, Even your neighbor that went out of town on vacation and forgot to turn off the sprinklers. Somebody must be to blame!…You are so upset that you threw the paper back at the paper boy……You have screamed out at your neighbors that always watch you get the paper: Hey! what are you looking at?…. You have rushed back inside and slammed the door….The door won’t shut correctly and it pops back open…..Now you notice that the crack in the wall has traveled even further…..By now you are smoking hot…..You want to slap somebody, anybody, God help any vacuum cleaner salesman that might come to the door right about now…..You have decided to take a nice hot shower. Now you sit down and pour yourself a cup of your favorite coffee……Your heart beat has slowed back down to normal….You take a couple of deep breaths and now you are feeling much better……You go over to your computer and begin more research. This time you stumble upon this particular article and it makes you laugh because you notice the truth right a way. You may not have done all of those crazy things but most people would.

You are not alone in your quest for answers. Your problems are not as difficult to solve as you might think. Hundreds of thousands of buildings are settling and cracking all over the country and I can guarantee you that no matter how bad yours may seem, there are much worse.

I am going to state some useful facts that may or may not apply to the situation that you are experiencing. This particular chapter deals with old homes and structures. Old buildings do weaken in time much like people, But they can still stand strong. They may just need a little help.
One question that I hear alot is this: Why did this building settle recently?…After all the building has withstood some of the most severe storms of the century. The building has stood strong through generations of family……Why did this building start settling and cracking now?

There are several possibilities, and we are going to examine them based on facts. The fact that the building is old, demonstrates the fact that the plumbing is old. You may have experienced a water leak, and had it fixed, and assumed that the problem was over. That may have been months ago, and you are thinking that couldn’t be related to this problem, Could it?…….Absolutely!…..Ground saturation will sometimes settle a foundation rapidly, (within days), and sometimes it takes weeks or even months because different soils react differently. Most clay based soils will contract and literally suck the foundation downward when it is drying out.

Another likely cause to foundation settlement is the sewer drain. The drain pipes under the older homes were either clay tile with cemented hub connectors, or ductile cast iron with lead poured joints.

There is a very high probability that the drain leaks. The reason I say this is because most of the buildings in older communities have mature trees or deep rooted plants of some sort. When you have called plumbers in the past to clean your drains, what are the things that they usually discover?….Tree roots and hair… Ok, so, How did the tree roots get in there?…. Through the pipe joints or cracks in the pipe. The fact that tree roots got in, indicates the fact that water has been getting out.

Another likely cause to the foundation settlement may be the water supply line. The older buildings used galvanized steel pipe to connect from the city main, to the building. The thing about steel is that no matter what, it will eventually corrode and begin leaking. The pipe can have thousands of pinholes and small cracks, and still function just fine. The problem is that lots of water can be escaping beneath the front yard and it can go un-detected until it eventually bursts and creates a big mess.

You should examine your front yard. Look for signs of sinking low spots in the yard. look for sinking sidewalks, sinking or tilting front porch.

There is a chance that some foundation repair costs will be covered by your homeowners insurance company if you can positively determine that it is from a plumbing problem.

You may have to be persistent, and you may have to obtain professional proof, but it may save you lots of money, and put an end to your frustration.

Some of you are thinking that perhaps the old building has out lived its intended life span, and that maybe it should be taken down. I say to you: Please don’t think that way. Think of your house or building as a living thing, after all, It is important to preserve history and keep it alive!

Remember this: Newer, is not better, it is just newer. Believe it or not there are usually more serious problems with the newer structures than there there ever could be with the older tried and true buildings.

I am only going to state my personal opinion on this very thing: I believe that older buildings should be preserved at any cost. Thank God for the craftsmen of yesterday. Many of them were buried years and years before their grandchildren raised their children in these buildings that are still standing proud!

Do any of you actually believe that the newer homes and buildings being constructed today, will still be standing in the next 100 years?, and if they are, How much money will it take to keep them standing?

Well I know that we have barely scratched the surface with these little tid bits, but we have examined a few facts, and we have looked at possibilities and probabilities, so, I would like each of you to take a couple of deep breaths and say to yourselves: I am going to beat this thing and it’s not going to beat me.

Now take two aspirin and call me in the morning…..

Total Hardness and Water Quality
By Anna Hart 

Most adults have learned that water can be soft or hard. They have learned, too, that there is a connection between total hardness and water quality. Hard water reduces the power of your soap. In fact, hard water is often detected by noting the amount of soap required to form lather. Hard water may build up in hot water pipes and appliances, producing scale.

Hard Water Defined

Hard water is water that contains high levels of dissolved calcium, magnesium, and other mineral salts such as iron. The greater the amount of dissolved minerals in the water, the harder it is.

Total hardness is measured in grains per gallon (gpg) or parts per million (ppm). If water contains less than 3.5 gpg, it is considered soft water. If it contains more than 7 gpg, it is considered hard water. The American Society of Engineers’ water hardness classification table breaks it down this way.

* Soft: 0 to 3.5 gpg – 0 to 60 ppm

* Moderate: 3.6 to 7 gpg – 61 to 120 ppm

* Hard: 7.1 to 10.5 gpg – 121 to 180 ppm

* Very Hard: More than 10.5 gpg – more than 180 ppm

Making the Connection

Total hardness and water quality are connected. Hard water is safe for drinking, cooking, and other household uses, but it can cause problems.

One way in which total hardness and water quality are connected is the effect of such water on household plumbing. Total hardness means a build-up of scales inside pipes, especially those carrying hot water.

Total hardness and water quality are also connected in their effect on appliances that use water. Dishwashers and washing machines can decrease in cleaning and laundering ability. Water heaters can become less efficient. Refrigerators that dispense water can become clogged.

Aesthetically, total hardness and water quality are connected in those white, chalky deposits that accumulate on tubs, sinks, and cookware.

U.S. Water Quality

According to the 1997 National Water Quality Survey, 1 of 5 people surveyed in the U.S. is dissatisfied with the water quality in his or her home. This is related to the fact given by the U.S. Geological Survey: that 85 percent of the U.S. has hard water. Many people install water softeners in their homes to improve water quality.

Determining Water Quality

You can have your water quality tested if you are moving into a new area or a new home. If you have been living in the same home for a while, you will know if your water is hard by looking for these 7 signs:

1. You have difficulty working up lather from a bar of soap.

2. Your soaps and detergents don’t seem to clean well – you have dingy laundry in spite of your efforts to get it clean.

3. In the shower or bath, your soap leaves a film on your body and hair – you have dry skin and dull, limp hair.

4. You have to battle soap scum on bathtubs, shower tiles and doors, basins, and fixtures.

5. You see an increasing buildup of scale on your cookware such as tea kettle, coffee maker, and pasta pot. Your plumbing also contains scale.

6. Clogged pipes or appliances mean that water flow is reduced.

7. Your water heating costs are increasing due to scale buildup and mineral deposits, and you have to replace hot water heating elements more often.

Improving Water Quality

Treatment can improve water quality. You may use electromagnetic water conditioners, water filters, or water softeners.

Electromagnetic water conditioners improve water quality by sending water through a magnetic field. As the water passes between the magnets, its calcium and magnesium ions lose their scale-causing properties. Studies show that this relatively new invention does not technically soften water, but water quality is improved in that it no longer causes buildup of scales. Clothing also lasts longer, which is a definite increase in water quality.

Water filters are a second option for improving water quality, especially drinking water. Water filters can provide healthy drinking water by removing chlorine and other contaminants contained in water. Water filters can soften water, but they will not prevent scale buildup in pipes and water heaters.

Water softeners are a common way of improving water quality, and come in two types: chemical and mechanical. The water produced by chemical water softeners is not acceptable drinking water. Packaged chemicals are added directly to improve water quality in laundering and bathing, and are effective both in protecting clothing and guarding against dry skin and hair. Mechanical water softeners installed in your home will replace dissolved calcium and magnesium salts with sodium. This water is also not acceptable for drinking, especially by those who have hypertension. The water quality is greatly improved, however, for other uses. Lime scale is prevented; water heaters function efficiently; and laundered clothing is both cleaner and longer-lasting.

Soft Water

On the other end of the spectrum, total hardness and water quality are a benefit when that hardness level is below 3.5 gpg or 60 ppm. Soft water allows you to use less shampoo and soap, yet have shinier hair and softer skin. Soft water requires less soap or detergent in shower, laundry, kitchen, and household cleaning chores. It helps close look cleaner and last longer. It keeps water-using appliances and plumbing from wearing out as fast. Soft water keeps dishes and eating utensils spot-free, and extends the life of tea kettles and other cookware. Soft water reduces cleaning time by eliminating soap scum and buildup of scales.

Total hardness and water quality are closely connected, and you may find it worthwhile to use a water treatment system to improve your water quality – especially your drinking water.

©2007, Anna Hart. Anna Hart invites you to read more of her articles about water quality at http://www.healthydrinkingwaterblog.com Anna has also posted information on that site about salt water. If you want to learn why you should not drink water softened with sodium, you won’t want to miss her article on that subject.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anna_Hart

Home Owner FAQ

Why ought I get my home’s electric system inspected?

A recent study from the FPRF or Fire Protection Research Foundation showed older homes may have life-threatening electrical conditions that need to be inspected and corrected by electric experts, such as a certified electrician. Electric fires that begin behind your walls can be amongst the most dangerous and deadly. Your family and the fire alarms in your home may not notice an electrical fire until it is fully engulfed, affording you less time and fewer choices for escape. Having your abode inspected by a skilled electrical professional person, such as a qualified electrician, is a simple step to protect you, your family unit, and your household.

Who would be considered a “qualified electrician?”

A qualified electrician is a disciplined professional who has skills, knowledge, and experience associated with the installation and repair of electric cabling and equipment. These electricians ought be familiar with the electrical building code prerequisites in the localities in which they do work, and should likewise be familiar with the most recent requirements of the National Electrical Code® (NEC®). If you’ve an older home and need it inspected, you also might want to consider finding an electrician who’s familiar with the NFPA 73, Electric Inspection Code for Existing Dwellings.

How much does an electrical inspection cost?

For a assortment of reasons, the price of an electrical inspection may deviate, although it’s typically low in comparison to other costs related to purchasing a home. Above all, the value of such an inspection is clear. By identifying potential perils before a dangerous situation occurs you’ll be protecting your family and your home.

My electrical outlets appear new. How do I know if there’s a problem in my home?

A recent first-of-its-kind study from the Fire Protection Research Foundation shows that substantial electrical system risks can exist and may stay out of sight within and “behind the walls” of older homes. The best way to evaluate and improve the electric safety of your home’s electrical system is to have it scrutinized by a competent electrician.

Can I do my own wiring?

Our lives virtually depend upon the safe utilization of electrical energy in our homes. Electricity is a leading cause of home fires in the United States. Even what some might think of as a “minor” problem can lead to fire. So, it’s always safest to consult a educated electrical professional prior to having any electrical work done.

What type of wiring should my home have?

If wiring is properly installed and maintained, even aged wiring can continue to perform effectively and safely. Troubles can occur in any type of wiring when it’s not been properly put in or maintained. Problems also come about when changes, that did not meet well accepted, established safety provisions, have been made in the electrical system after the home was originally constructed. For owners of older homes, it’s vital that their entire electrical system be scrutinised by a qualified electrician. Confer with these professionals to ascertain what wiring would fit your home best.

What is the National Electrical Code® and how does it affect my home?

The National Electrical Code®, or NEC®, is the world’s most widely embraced electrical safety code. The code is on a regular basis updated to include the latest safety provisos and is issued by the National Fire Protection Association. Homeowners should insure that all electrical work done in their home conforms to the current electrical safety provisions. To do so, work with a qualified electrician.

What sorts of electrical safety risks can I look for on my own?

* Check electrical cords to make sure the wires are not beaten-up, cracked or loose. Whenever the cords need to be repaired, take the item to a professional repair shop, employ a qualified electrician, or replace with a new item.
* Make sure cords are not coming across thresholds or below carpets and avoid pinching cords against walls or furniture. If needed, have a qualified electrician put in more outlets.
* Ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) reduce the danger of electrical shock by interrupting the electrical circuit when a electric shock hazard exists. Your home should have GFCIs about kitchen countertops, in bathroom(s), near laundry and utility sinks, in the garage, outside areas, in crawlspaces, and in unfinished basements.

But remember, the recent, first-of-its-kind written report from the Fire Protection Research Foundation demonstrates that real electrical system dangers might exist and can remain concealed in older homes. The best way to assess and improve the electrical safety of your home is to have your home audited by a trained electrical professional, such as a qualified electrician.

Where are ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) required to be installed by the current NEC®?

The 2008 National Electrical Code® (NEC®) mandates GFCI protection for all 125V, 15A, and 20A receptacles installed:

* in bathrooms
* to serve kitchen countertop surfaces
* near wet-bar, laundry and utility sinks
* in garages and accessory buildings
* in unfinished basements or crawl spaces
* outdoors
* near a pool, or almost anywhere else you are likely to come across water or moistness.

The NEC® also now expects that if you replace an existent outlet in a position requiring GFCI protection, you must put in a GFCI.

If your home does not have GFCIs in these areas because the electrical system was installed in accordance with prior editions of the NEC®, you may desire to look at installing GFCIs anyhow. In the United States., GFCI outlets are very low-cost. Valuate your own risk factors: Does your finished basement ever get wet? Do you have little children? Do you employ your garage outlets to power outdoor tools? Does H2O or melted snow ever pool inside your garage? If so, you had better, at a minimum, have GFCI protection in those regions.
What problems constitute a fire risk?

Call a qualified electrician or landlord if you have:

* Continual problems with blowing fuses or tripping breakers
* A tingling feeling when you contact an electrical appliance or other metallic objects
* Discolored or warm wall outlets
* A continual burning aroma or rubbery smell coming from an appliance, room, or area
* Flickering lights
* Sparks from an electric outlet
* Animal or insect infestation with the possibility of them gnawing on wiring
* Degradation due to moisture or flood damage
* Aged homes with out-of-date wiring that may demonstrate signs of cracking or damage to the wire insulating material.

Once again, check with a qualified electrician prior to doing any work on your electric system.

If my house doesn’t meet some of the rules and regulations, what should I do?

If you’re planning to modify your wiring, first check with your local building department about the licencing, permitting, and inspection necessities that may apply in your community. Prior to doing electrical work, we recommend that you have your home’s electrical system visited by a trained electrical professional person, such as a qualified electrician. And, make sure that work done in your home meets the most current electric safety requisites.