Inspector’s Blog

5 Signs That Your Air Conditioner Filter May Be Causing Problems
By Donald Munn

In an effort to reduce indoor pollution in your home you may actually be impacting your air conditioner in a negative way. Installing a very efficient air conditioner filter is one of those things that can have a negative impact. A high efficiency air filter can negatively impact air conditioner performance. Your ultimate goal is to have the most efficient air conditioner filter possible while having the least impact air conditioner performance.

Five Signs Of Trouble:

1.Evaporator Coil Ices Up

2.Long Run Times

3.Poor Air Flow From The Vents

4.Collapsing Filters

5.Unit Stops Cooling For No Apparent Reason

The Evaporator Ices Up Every Couple Of Months Or Even More Often

This is a common problem with air conditioning equipment and is related to air flow or low load conditions. Air conditioners are designed to have a minimum amount of air flow for each ton of cooling. When air flow falls below design requirements the evaporator coil can ice up. If you are experiencing this problem you can use a slightly less efficient air filter. If this is only a problem every few months then all you need to do is change the filter in you air conditioner more frequently.

Long Run Time Means More Energy Consumption

This is a problem that you may or may not be aware of. If better air quality is more important than slightly higher operating costs then ignore this one, unless you are also experiencing symptom number one also. The solution to this problem is more frequent filter changes or a less efficient filter.

Poor Air Flow From The Vents

Assuming you have a properly sized duct system that has balanced air flow to all rooms you should feel the same amount of air coming from all vents. If you notice that air flow from the vents that are the farthest from the main duct line or on other floors begins to decline as filter change time approaches then you should consider changing your filter more often or using a less efficient filter.

Collapsing Filters

This can happen when filters are in the system too long and they become so dirty and restrict air flow so badly that they actually are sucked right out of the filter rack. More durable filters will stay in the filter rack and cause the same symptoms as number one above. The solution is to change filters more often, use better quality filters or both.

Unit Stops Cooling

Some air conditioner manufacturers install Freeze Stats in air handlers to prevent problems with icing up. When the evaporator temperature becomes too low, a thermostat will open and not allow the compressor to operate. When the evaporator temperature returns to its normal range the thermostat closes and the unit returns to normal operation.

These are some of the most common problems that you may encounter with your air conditioner. The solution to these problems is to change your air conditioner filter regularly, as recommended by the manufacturer. If following manufacturer guidelines does not correct the problem then you may want to consider a filter that has less of an impact on air flow.

For answers to all of your air conditioner filter questions visit us at http://www.furnacefiltercare.com. Take part in our surveys, ask for help or browse through our informative articles.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Donald_Munn

Trouble Shooting Air Conditioners
By Terry Manlick

Before you call a air conditioning service repair man to check your air conditioner that’s not cooling you may want to check some of these possible causes. First and most obvious is to be sure your system air filter is not restricted. In many cases this will cause your evaporator or indoor coil to freeze up. If the system has a fan v-belt make sure it is not cracked broke or slipping. If the evaporator coil is froze up you may notice condensate leaking in and around the furnace, air handler or window type A/C unit. Another more apparent sign would be actually seeing ice build up on the coil or refrigeration lines connecting the evaporator and condenser.

Another cause for your system freezing up could be closed or blocked supply registers. In some cases people will close registers to unoccupied areas of their home for energy savings but closing to many can cause more problems than it’s worth. System freeze ups can also be related to a lose of refrigerant with in your air conditioner. If your system is low on refrigerant you will have to have a qualified air conditioning repair technician locate and repair the leak as well as properly recharge the system. Any time your air conditioner system is froze up you should place the thermostats fan switch to the on position and the cool system switch to off for a long enough time to allow the coils to completely thaw. After checking some or all of the potential problems you can try to run the air conditioner again. If you have air blowing out of your supply registers but it’s not cool you will want to check the condenser or out door unit to be sure it is running. If you do not hear anything running check the breaker or disconnect switch at the condenser. Their may also be bad fuses in the disconnect box. Tripped breakers or blow fused are typically caused by problems that need to be addressed by a technician . It is possible that a power surge or electrical storm could also cause a breaker to trip and once you reset it the system will be fine. Another common cause for the condenser not functioning is a broken or shorted low voltage wire. Mice and other rodents will tend to chew though these wires. The low voltage wire is typically a small two conductor wire that runs along side the refrigerant lines. If the condenser is running but not cooling you may want to clean it. This can be done by turning off power to it, then wet it down with a garden hose. Apply a air conditioning coil cleaning solvent to the coil surface. Convenient aerosol spray cans or mixable powder form can be purchased online at HVAC Maintenance & Supplies.

(www.mainsupplies.com) Allow the coil to soak for 3-5 minutes then flush out with a garden hose. Be sure the water pressure is not so high that it damages the coil fins. A coil fin tool, also available online at HVAC Maintenance & Supplies can be used to straighten the fins. Repeat this process until the water starts to flush out relatively clear. Safety glasses and rubber gloves should be worn when using coil cleaning chemicals. If your air conditioner is a portable window type you can carefully remove the units outer casing, apply coil cleaner to both evaporator and condenser coils then flush with water. Most dirt will build up on the inside of the condenser coil that can not be seen with out removing the units outer casing. These tips may not resolve all your air conditioning problems but I can tell you that as a service technician myself these are some of the most common problems I have encountered.

Information provided by Terry Manlick with HVAC Maintenance & Supplies. Other maintenance articles as well as hvac maintenance products such as filters, v-belts, humidifier filters and coil cleaners can be found online at http://www.mainsupplies.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Manlick

Installing a Toilet
By Mark Donovan

The installation of a toilet is a relatively easy job for a homeowner. With a couple of wrenches, a screwdriver and a few shims a new toilet can be installed in about one hour.

Toilets can be purchased at any home improvement store or plumbing supply center. Typically a gravity flush toilet costs between $150 and $300, however the price can double or triple for more elaborate units, such as pressure flush systems. Today’s toilets are mandated to use no more than 1.6 gallons per flush, where as older units used as much as 5 gallons. The initial 1.6 gallon toilets were notorious for frequently clogging, however over the past several years suppliers have improved the performance of these low water-use systems.

Setting the Toilet

A toilet usually consists of two main parts: a bowl and a tank. It is best to first install the bowl. Prior to seating the bowl, check if the closet flange has been temporarily plugged with insulation or a rag to prevent sewer gases from escaping. Remove this. Next set the bowl on top of the closet flange to determine if it sits level. If it does not, prepare some shims to use later.

Next remove the bowl, and insert the closet bolts (approximately 2” long bolts) into the slots on the closet flange.

Then turn the bowl over and install a wax ring gasket over the outlet of the bowl. This outlet is also know as the “horn”.

Place the bowl onto the closet flange. Make sure the bowl is well seated by rocking the bowl down. Once the bowl has been seated, place a level on it and use the shims as necessary. Next, using nuts and washers tighten up the bolts. Note: be careful not to over-tighten these bolts as it could crack the bowl.

Next attach the tank to the bowl using the tank bolts, nuts and washers. Again, do not over tighten.

Installing the Float Supply Unit

Install the float supply unit into the tank and hook up the water line to the tank inlet. Again, do not over tighten and make sure to use the washers supplied.

Next, turn the supply line on and adjust the float as necessary.
Finally, caulk around the base of the unit and you are done.

Me_Donovan@comcast.net
http://www.homeadditionplus.com
http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com

Over the past 20+ years Mr. Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. Mr. Donovan’s formal education and profession have been as an Electrical Engineer and Marketing Manager.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mark_Donovan

Tankless Water Heaters
By Max Bellamy 

Tankless water heaters are cost effective alternatives to conventional heaters, which require a substantial amount of energy. Easy to install, tankless water heaters do not require a storage tank to supply hot water. Tankless water heaters are known by different names such as demand water heaters, inline water heaters, instant water heaters, instantaneous water heaters, and point of use water heaters.

Tankless water heaters function differently from standard water heaters – a water flow sensor controls the water flow into the heater. Later, the burner is automatically ignited and the water flows through the heat exchanger, which in turn instantly heats the water to the required temperature. The process stops automatically when the hot water tap is turned off. The temperature can be adjusted with the turn of a dial. A specialty of tankless water heaters is that they never run out of hot water.

The prime advantage of tankless water heaters is the way they heat water only when required, thereby reducing the energy used during standby intervals. Accordingly, one can save up to 20% on the heating bill. Since a tankless water heater does not store hot water, the chance of bacteria growth is lessened. Cost effectiveness, lower maintenance, and longer equipment life are some other prime advantages of tankless water heaters. One can choose from electric tankless water heaters and gas/propane tankless water heaters. Tankless water heaters are available in a variety of sizes and affordable prices.

Of course, there are some disadvantages to tankless water heaters. They cannot provide adequate hot water for too much simultaneous use, such as taking a shower and doing laundry at the same time. Another drawback is that these heaters may leak if exposed to freezing temperatures. In addition, tankless water heaters require more instantaneous power compared to traditional water heaters. Despite the disadvantages, a tankless water heater is widely used for both commercial and residential purposes, and buyers should weigh the pros and cons before choosing the correct heater for their needs.

Tankless Water Heaters provides detailed information on Tankless Water Heaters, Tankless Water Heater Reviews, Tankless Electric Water Heaters, Tankless Gas Water Heaters and more. Tankless Water Heaters is affiliated with Dunk Tanks.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Max_Bellamy

Don’t Get Flushed by Plumbing Problems
By Robert W. White 

There are several plumbing problems that the do-it-yourselfer can fix with little effort and a lot less money than calling a plumber. Remember the DIY motto is to only call for professional help when absolutely necessary. Now there is nothing wrong with hiring a professional because we cannot possibly do every project ourselves but there are many projects that we can do.

Some common plumbing problems include problems with the hot water, problems with the toilet, and problems with drainage in the sink of tubs. With hot water sometimes you may find that there is not enough hot water. This is especially true for larger families. A common cause for this may be that the thermostat on the water heater may be set too low. A fix for this is to adjust the water heater thermostat upwards. This will allow less hot water to be used to still get the temperature that everyone wants.

A common toilet problem is when the toilet does not flush completely. This of course is evidenced by remnants remaining in the bowl after the toilet is flushed. The most common cause is that the ball in the tank is not being lifted high enough. The solution is to adjust the lift mechanism so that it lifts the ball higher in the tank.

A common sink drainage problem is the grease clog. In the case of clogs, the best thing to do is to try to prevent them in the first place. A good way to prevent grease clogs is to pour about a half gallon of boiling water down the drain every other day. However if you already have a grease clog, try pouring some hot vinegar down the drain and letting is set for about 20 minutes and then follow it with boiling water after the 20 minute vinegar soak.

Plumbing problems are one of the top reasons that professional help is sought. However, many of the plumbing problems that you will face can be solved as a DIY project. So make sure that you determine that you are not equipped to solve the problem before you call the plumber.

Are you hungry for more Do-it-Yourself home improvement ideas? Try visiting http://www.home-improvement-know-how.com, a popular website that provides home improvement ideas, advice, and tips for your plumbing projects.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Robert_W._White

Plumbing For a New Refrigerator by Yourself
By Megan Cherry 

Everyone should know how to do simple home repairs whether it be a small plumbing job or hanging coat rack.

Your old refrigerator is finally giving up the ghost and you have been looking at the new style and refrigerators with a built in ice maker and water dispenser and you realize that you’ll need a water supply to your new refrigerator. If if the thought of hiring a plumber to come out and run the water supply line Is too much for you to bear have no fear in most cases running a new supply line to your refrigerator is not that difficult.

More likely the biggest obstacle you’ll face is tapping into a cold water pipe. The first step in any plumbing project is to shut off the water it is also a good idea to turn on or open a valve above and below the area were you will be working on this allows any water in the pipe to drain out. As a rule the easiest place to tap into a cold water supply line for your refrigerator would be under your kitchen sink, remember the cold water should be on your right. You may also want to check in the basement and the wall behind the old refrigerator a line may have already been run if you have a newer house. There are several ways to tap into the existing cold water line you can cut the old pipe off and solder a new fitting and shut off valve onto the old pipe, this would be the best solution. Or you can use a saddle valve a saddle valve only requires a screwdriver for installation, the saddle valve is placed over the existing supply line and tighten down, and the handle is turned which pierces the supply line. Once you have connected to the cold water supply line you’ll need to run the quarter inch copper or plastic tubing to your refrigerator in most cases you’ll need to drill holes in the in the back of your cabinets to run the line. When you have to line connected to your new refrigerator you can turn the water back, and check for any leaks, pay close attention to your connections.

A couple of things to remember, leave about 8ft. of tubing coiled behind the refrigerator so that it is possible to pull out the refrigerator for cleaning or maintenance. You may also want to consider installing a water filter in the line going to the refrigerator if you do install filter think about where to place it for easy maintenance.

Megan Cherry writes for http://www.pegandrail.com Need some great Maple coat racks or a nice all coat hook stop in and check us out.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Megan_Cherry

Plumbing DIY, Replacing Taps
By Helen Cox 

Plumbing is an aspect of home improvement that often comes about without choice. It is important to take care of the plumbing of your property in order to avoid emergency situations and to ensure that you are getting the best from your plumbing system.

When it comes to replacing taps it can often be more complex than you may realise at first. Replacing taps can either be required as part of the installation of a new bath/basin or because your old taps have worn down. You may, however, just wish to replace your taps simply on a more cosmetic basis.

It is important to understand how many ‘holes’ your sink has when it comes to changing your taps. The amount of holes will determine whether you can install two separate taps or whether you will have just the one serving both your hot and cold needs. If there is one hole you are restricted to the one tap and you will require a mono-bloc mixer when it comes to replacing your taps. With one hole you will have two diameter pipes coming out of the hole, one for hot and one for cold. It there are, however, two holes you are able to fit two separate taps to your sink, giving you a tap for hot water and a tap for cold water.

Ok now you have some basics about what to look for in your pipe work we can move onto the removal of your old taps. The first thing you need to ensure you do is to disconnect the water supply and then turn your taps on fully to drain any water left in your system. The way in which you cut off your water supply depends on what sort of water supply you are dealing with. If connected to the mains you should turn off your indoor stop valve. If your hot and cold taps feed off pipes from a cistern you should have a gate valve/mini stopcock available to turn off. The stop valve can be found alongside the cold water tank.

You should then use a wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to undo the nut, which connects the supply pipes to the taps. You will probably experience some water coming from the pipes at this point so ensure that you have a cloth ready then loosen the nut that is holding the taps in place and remove them from the sink. You then need to clean the area the taps fit into as well as replace any old sealing compound.

Before you go ahead and fit your new taps you need to compare the pipe connections on the old taps to the new taps. If they are longer then you will need a shank adapter in order to make them fit.

When it comes to actually fitting your new taps you have to check to see if the tails of the new taps are plastic. If not a connector is required to prevent damage. One end of the connector fits onto the tail and the other provides a connection to existing pipes. To fit the taps you should position the tap in the mounting hole in the basin, ensuring that the washers are in place between the tap and the sink and when the tap is securely in place the supply pipes can be connected.

When your taps are firmly in place and have been securely connected to the pipes you can then turn your water supply back on. Once your water is on you should check for any leaks; if any appear they can normally be resolved by tightening your joins.

Helen is the web master for ARCH Building Solutions who are experts in all aspects of Building Repairs and all aspects of Plumbing

Please feel free to republish this article provided a working hyperlink remains to our site

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7 Common Plumbing Problems and Fixes
By Henry S James

Many homes, even brand new homes, can have plumbing problems. However, instead of getting a plumber involved, it is possible to fix many of these plumbing problems without professional help. Here are seven common plumbing problems, as well as how to fix them:

Lack of hot water

Plumbing problems related to water temperature always lead to your water heater. You might be able to turn up the thermostat on your water heater. However, your water heater may be clogged with calcium deposits, which limits the amount of hot water it can produce. In this event, it is possible to remove these deposits from most water heaters. Replacing the heating elements is can also restore hot water to your home. Another possibility is that the water heater is beyond repair and must be replaced.

Leaky faucet

A leaky faucet is one of the easiest plumbing problems to fix. The source of the leak is usually a bad seal in the faucet handle. Simply disassemble the faucet, replace the worn out part (usually a rubber gasket), and put it back together.

Clogged Toilet

A clogged toilet is among the list of common but easily solved, plumbing problems. Most clogged toilets can be fixed by plunging. However, if plunging the toilet does not alleviate the clog, serious plumbing problems could be the cause.

Toilet Does Not Flush Everything

If your toilet is not clogged, but does not flush everything, there may not be enough water to carry everything away. In the tank behind the toilet bowl, there is a float that controls how much water is used. Making the float sit higher so that more water is used should cure plumbing problems related to a weak flush.

Slow Draining Sinks

Most home remedies for slow draining sinks involve pouring some kind of solution down the drain to loosen deposits that slow the flow of water. Remedies for these plumbing problems include solutions from store bought drain cleaners to bleach or hot vinegar. Another way to solve and prevent these types of plumbing problems is to fill all the sinks with water and drain them all at once. The pressure caused by this volume of water can help push deposits out of your pipes.

Pipes under the Sink Leak

Before you tackle these plumbing problems, make sure the fixture with the leak is not clogged. If there is no clog, find the source of the leak. In the event that the leak is coming from the juncture of two pipes, try to tighten it. If this does not work, take the leaky section apart and check for stripped or damaged threads. Replacing a damaged part may be necessary, but wrapping the threads with Teflon tape will eliminate most leaky joints. However, if there is a crack in a pipe or appliance component, replacement is usually the only option.

Toilet Leaks from the Base

A toilet leak, if it is in fact coming from the base, can usually be fixed by replacing the wax ring that fits between the toilet and the floor. This can be relatively simply to do, unless the floor is uneven or something else prevents solid contact between the toilet and the wax ring.

Dealing with Common Plumbing Problems

Although fixing plumbing problems is not usually fun, you can save yourself a lot of money by not calling a plumber. Even if you do decide to get a plumber involved, diagnosing the problem can shorten the process and ensure that a plumber does not try to fix anything that is not broken.

Written by Henry James. For information on finding a licensed and experienced Melbourne plumber, please visit http://www.melbourneplumber.com.au

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Henry_S_James

Plumbing - Removal and Replacement of Radiators
By Steve Hinks

From time to time removing a radiator is a necessary task that many people would only trust to a plumber. For simple maintenance or to aid decorating, the removal of a radiator doesn’t need to be a specialist job and can be easily carried out by the householder. That said, if you doubt your DIY skills then leave well alone, but for those who have a reasonable understanding of how their heating system works, the job can be done without too much fuss or mess.

Before beginning any kind of work on radiators it’s best to spend a little time familiarizing yourself with the system and ensuring you have an understanding of where various shut off valves are located. It’s also useful to equip yourself with all the likely tools, fittings, materials etc, to complete the job. There is nothing worse than being in the middle of a job only to find it’ll take a trip to the DYI store to finish…especially when water is involved.

To begin the task of removing a radiator first close off the lock shield valve (usually bottom of radiator). Do not over tighten and remain mindful of roughly how many turns it takes to close it. With a tub or bowl placed under the valve begin to disconnect the valve from the radiator. As water begins to leak out ensure the water is collected properly; adjusting the flow with the nut that connects the valve to the radiator can control the speed of the flow. Opening the bleed valve (usually top of radiator) will help the water flow out. As the flow slows the valve and radiator can be completely disconnected and the remaining water drained off.

It should now be possible to lift the radiator from the wall brackets, which in turn can also be removed. This now clears the space for other types of repair work or decorating etc. If the wall is to be papered it’s a good idea to replace the wall bracket screws in order to mark their location.

Refitting the radiator is generally a reversal of the removal procedure. Depending upon the valves types it’s sometime useful (but not always necessary) to replace the olives (brass washer type fitting) and / or bind the connecting treads with fresh PTFE tape. With the connections properly made slowly open the lock shield valve by the same number of turns it took to close. With the bleed valve open air should be pushed out of the radiator and replaced with water from the central heating system. Once bubbles of water emerge from the bleed valve close it off. If no leaks can be seen, running the central heating will push water around the system. Practically it’s good to check the rest of the radiators in the house for cold spots and bleed any air as may be needed.

If the radiator is to be replaced with a new one the compatibility of valves and radiator need to be checked. If the new radiator is supplied without valves it may be possible to remove and install the old valves from the previous radiator. Treads should be cleaned and installed after binding with PTFE tape. Wall brackets may also need moving or replacing if the new radiator is a different design to the old one.

This article is free to republish provided the resource information remains intact.

Shropshire Building Skills :: Shropshire’s No. 1 Construction Training Centre info@shropshirebuildingskills.co.uk

http://www.shropshirebuildingskills.co.uk

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Utilizing Metal Roofing Panels For Your Home Or Building
By Anthony Lee 

If you are deciding on what alternative material to use as roofing panels, metal can be a wise option. Metal is very versatile compared to other types of roofing solutions as it is very durable, fire retardant, and lightweight. It is proven to resist dilapidation.

These are the basic characteristics of metal roofing panels. They can simply be used for many purposes and can be easily installed even without the help of a professional. Here are some of them and their distinct characteristics:

1. Steel is one of the most popular choices in roofing. However, this material is cursed with a cruel downside. They are very prone to corrosion. As time passes by on your metal roofing panel, though, there can be things to do to remedy this. Manufacturers coat them with zinc and seal them. This kind of application will lessen the probability of rusting and corroding.

Steel comes in different colors and will always fit to any specifications that you need to your home or building. As of today, they can withstand even the worst weather conditions, even other environmental factors are still hard to putting down this sturdy roofing panel.

Steel is known to be heavy and panels are not an exception, it can cause some problems such as imbalance on some homes but it is the most durable of all metal roofing panels.

2. Stainless steel is also a good metal. The first thing you have to consider using them is its cost, stainless steel is very expensive but it makes up for its almost no maintenance, they will never rust, they have the same characteristics of steel but they get by with their no maintenance feature.

3. Copper is another roofing panel that is very light. They are widely used in homes. As they have little weight, they also look great due to its properties. This is the best choice for easy transportation; you can easily transport them from the warehouse to your home. In addition, they have been treated to prevent corrosion for a long time and will never rust.

4. Another roofing panel is aluminum. They are also lightweight and are used in residential areas. It can save you money due to its less shipping weight hence it can be easily transported. Aluminum does not rust. They are the choice for most people who have the budget.